Sailing Yacht SEA BUNNY

Indonesia

Anchorages for the Sail Indonesia 2008 Rally, independently in 2013 and 2015

Positions are the actual WGS84 GPS coordinates recorded at the time of anchoring, either where the anchor went down or where the boat ended up. While they are believed to be accurate they should be used as a guide only, in conjunction with other navigational data, including up to date charts, and must not be relied on for navigation. Where CD is shown after a depth it indicates that we have reduced it to chart datum. Otherwise it is as recorded on our echo sounder, which is calibrated to the actual depth of water. Sea Bunny's draft is 2.4 m in cruising trim.
Where SI 2008 follows the anchorage name it signifies a location supported by the Sail Indonesia 2008 rally organisers


General comments

SI route

Until entering the Java Sea, north of Java many of the anchorages are on narrow shelfs which drop off rapidly to 50 m or more. Several of the Sail Indonesia supported locations really did not have sufficient space safely to accomodate the rally fleet, or even half of it.

We added extra chain to our normal 60 m on several occasions in order to have sufficient scope to anchor in 25 m or so. We did this more times on this trip than we have in the last 7 years cruising put together.

One consequence of these depths is that some boats use insufficient scope and drag. Others anchor too close to boats already there and swing into them.

With the widespread use of flashing LED lights in lieu of proper anchor or navigation lights by both fishing boats and, regrettably, yachts, anchorages have become very confusing. It is no longer safe to assume that a flashing white light is a north cardinal, that a flashing red or green is a lateral marker or that a flashing blue is official. A flashing amber in this part of the world is a ferry, not an air-cushion vessel.

There appear to be very few places in Indonesia where yachts can come alongside to fuel, with the consequence that there is much ferrying of fuel in jerrycans. Apparently the local fishing boats use diesel cut with kerosene which may or may not be suitable for modern yacht engines. There is usually a local entrepreneur who will take you jerrycans to the service station, often on a motorbike. Sometimes he has access to a boat and will bring fuel out to the boat. Sometimes he has his own jerrycans, often without caps or with leaky ones so can deliver a larger quantity thjan will fit in your own cans. The fuel must be filtered. We used jerrycans throughout Indonesia, having only resorted to them once during the previous 7 years cruising.

Kupang, Timor (SI2008)

Anchorage location: 10° 09'.44 S, 123° 34'.55 E, depth 10 m

Off the town

A pontoon dinghy dock had been constructed specially for the rally but it disintegrated in the swell.

Landing is on the beach. Onshore winds can make this positively dangerous

Passage Kupang – Kalabahi, Alor

170 miles. We did it overnight

Some boats anchored off the coast of Timor

Significant west-going current for much of the trip

Need to get the tides right for the passage up Selat Pantar between Pantar and Alor Islands. The Southeast Asia Cruising Guide gives the calculation method, which requires the time of moon's meridian passage obtained from the nautical almanac or by using various software packages.

Kalabahi, Alor (SI2008)

Kalabahi, Alor (SI2008)

Anchorage location: 08° 13'.41 S, 124° 30'.82 E, depth 23 m

There is limited space on the shallow shelf off the town. Arriving after many of the other boats, we could not find sufficient space to anchor safely clear of others on the shelf, so we extended our chain to 90 m and anchored in deep water.

Anchorage is reasonably sheltered but subject to strongish breezes in the afternoon. Because of the lack of space boats tended to use insufficient scope and some dragged.

Passage Kalabahi - Lewoleba, Lembata

Passage Kalabahi - Lewoleba, Lembata

90 miles

2 day sails with overnight stop at Teluk Balaurin on Lembata

Teluk Balaurin, northern Lembata

Teluk Balaurin, northern Lembata

Anchorage location: 08° 14'.96 S, 123° 41'.79 E, depth 9 m. There are shallow patches, >5 m to the east of our anchorage position and also further to the west.

A well indented bay. Anchorage is at the south-east corner of the bay, south of the village harbour on a fairly narrow shelf. There are rocks close to the east of given anchorage location and also further to the west.

This anchorage was sheltered in the southerly conditions we had but would be exposed to anything from the north or northwest

The village harbour is reported to be very deep and obstructed by numerous fishing floats

Confusingly, the island of Lembata is also known as Kawula

Lewoleba, Lembata (SI 2008)

Anchorage location: 08° 22'.01 S, 123° 24'.75 E, depth 10 m

Anchorage is inside a reef in a very large bay, there is plenty of room for the yachts to find space, avoiding the fishing nets laid in the anchorage.

A dinghy landing jetty had been constructed for Sail Indonesia to the SW of our anchoring position.

The reef would give some protection from the north

Lewoleba - Sea World, Maumere

105 miles

3 day sails with overnight stops at Sagu Bay, Serbete Island, Teluk Hading

Sagu Bay, northern Adunara

Anchorage location: 08° 14'.36 S, 123° 13'.53 E, depth 8 m

Anchorage is in a well-indented bay off a coconut plantation to the east of the village. Well sheltered from all locations except north

The shelf is reasonably wide. There are rocks close to the east of the given position. There are also bommies with less than 2 m well out into the bay (one at 08° 14'.180 S, 123° 13'.382 E) to be avoided on arrival and departure. Good light is recommended.

Serbete Island

Anchorage location: 08° 09'.38 S, 123° 02'.07 E, 15 m

This anchorage is to the north of the reef to the east of the very small Serbete Island, lying NW of the strait between Adunara and Flores.

We approached from the north of the island and skirted the reef, expecting to find a shallow patch on which to anchor but the reef dropped away rapidly for most of its length. The location given is a sort of lagoon at the north end of a pass through the reef, which could possibly take a keelboat in good light.

It was slightly uncomfortable at the change of tide when the stern was into the 25 knot wind. It would be untenable in much more or in a northerly. At least one other boat spent some time parked on this reef, so good light is essential on approach and departure. We attempted to leave due north from the anchorage in the morning and retreated on finding bommies with less than 4 m. We retraced our track and left as we had come in.

Other boats found anchorage to the south of the pass and also off the sandbank to the east.

Teluk Hading, Flores

Anchorage location: 08° 17'.81 S, 122° 49'.02 E, 7 m

The anchorage (11B in 101 Anchorages) is off a small village on the south side of the very large Teluk Hading. Exposed to the north.

Again there is a narrow shelf, which has substantial patches of coral severely limiting the available space.

We totally failed to find the gently shelving sandy bottom mentioned at this location in 101 Anchorages.

Sea World, Maumere, Flores (SI2008)

Anchorage location: 08° 38'.00 S, 122° 18'.56 E, 23 m Anchor in 23 m, boat in 32 m

Sea World is some 8 M to the east of the town of Maumere and also 8 M west of the coordinates given by Sail Indonesia for the location.

The anchorage is on a narrow shelf between reefs to the east and west. There is insufficient space for the fleet to anchor in comfortable depths. Arriving later than most of the fleet we took several attempts to find a very marginal spot and were effectively anchored on the drop-off with 90 m of chain.

It was fortunate that the boats inside us had left before the wind went onshore and all the boats swung, as these boats were anchored in about 8 m depth on much less chain.

The anchorage is totally exposed to anything from the north.

Passage Sea World, Maumere to Teluk Mausambi

40 miles day-sail

Teluk Mausambi (SI2008 - Ende)

Anchorage location: 08° 30'.46 S, 121° 47'.68 E, anchor in 14 m, boat in 7.5 m.

Teluk Mausambi was the designated Sail Indonesia stop-over titled Ende. This was very confusing as the town of Ende is actually on the south coast of Flores, the anchorage is on the north coast!

There are a number of bommies in the anchorage which need to be avoided, so good light is needed. Arriving after most of the fleet we anchored well to the east of the dinghy pontoon that had been constructed for the Sail Indonesia fleet. At most states of the tide this pontoon did not actually reach the dry beach and was subject to substantial swell, particularly in the evenings. There is another anchorage between reefs at the west of the bay which also offered a more protected dinghy landing at the expense of a walk along the beach.

Other boats anchored some 2 miles to the east in a reportedly more sheltered location

Passage: Teluk Mausambi to Labuan Bajo

160 miles

6 day sails, one very short. Overnight stops in Teluk Ciendeh, Riung, 17 Islands NP, Teluk Lingeh, Gili Bodo

Teluk Ciendeh

Anchorage location: 08° 36'.64 S, 121° 31'.10 E, 5 m

A very indented bay with a narrow entrance giving excellent shelter from all directions and shallow water. Plenty of room to anchor outside the fishing boats. Could easily accomodate the whole fleet.

Riung

Anchorage location: 08° 24'.61 S, 121° 01'.52 E, 14 m

Our anchorage was off the new concrete jetty close to the drying shallows that surround it.

Well sheltered by offshore islands

There is a wooden jetty to the east of the anchorage giving access to a stilted village and, after a 500 m walk, the more substantial main village.

17 Islands National Park

:Anchorage location: 08° 23'.63 S, 121° 04'.71 E, anchor in 8 m, boat in 20 m.

We anchored off the fourth island east from Riung, in the national park. It probably does have a name but not on the chart! Google Earth has a photo entitled Pulau Tiga (Island 3)!

We edged in towards the beach and anchored on a sandy patch close to the shore and then pulled the chain out over the drop-off, putting a stern anchor out to hold us off the beach.

Sheltered from the north, moderate fetch from the south but comfortable when we were there

Some reasonable coral.

Teluk Lingeh

Anchorage location: 08° 16'.50 S, 120° 35'.55 E, 10 m

There is a substantial reef stretching across the bay, much further than is shown on the mud map in 101 Anchorages or on the chart. A boat just ahead of us hit the reef trying to cross it and spent an uncomfortable 6 hours on her side.

We anchored outside the reef having tried to render assistance. It is possible to round the end of the reef and anchor off the village (101 Anchorages - 22). Good light is needed to see the extent of the reef

Our anchorage was exposed to the NW.

Gili Bodo

Anchorage location: 08° 22'.22 S, 120° 00'.87 E, 11 m

This anchorage (101 Anchorages - 23) is behind a reef on the west side of the island with a single entrance at the NW end. There is good shelter and room for about 20 boats. Bottom is mostly sand with coral patches.

The reef would protect from the west.

Reasonable snorkelling. Beach access over the reef at low water can be tricky.

Labuan Bajo (SI2008)

Anchorage location: 08° 30'.93 S, 119° 51'.99 E, 10 m

The location for the Sail Indonesia activities was at Pantai Pade, between our anchorage point and the town of Labuan Bajo. Our anchorage was off the Eco Lodge resort, where most of the rally fleet anchored (101 Anchorages - 26). The shallow aea here extends well out from the beach.

It was also possible to anchor off the town (101 Anchorages - 24 and 25) or off Pantai Pade itself.

There are shallows with lots of fishing floats, some linked with ropes just below the surface off the point between the Eco Lodge and Pantai Pade. Take this very wide even in the dinghy.

Passage: Labuan Bajo - Mataram

258 M, 7 day sails with overnight stops at Rinca, Gili Lawa Laut, Teluk Wera, Tangung Pantjo, Kananga, Pulau Medang, Gili Lawang

Rinca

Anchorage location: 08° 39'.06 S, 119° 42'.78 E, 22 m

Anchorage in an inlet leading to the National Park offices. Room for about 5 boats in shallower water further in. Fairly narrow with shallows on both sides. Good shelter. (101 Anchorages - 39). Guided tours to see the Komodo Dragons.

Gili Lawa Laut

Anchorage location: 08° 26'.86 S, 119° 34'.16 E, anchor in 15 m, boat in 23 m.

A pleasant bay on the north of the island with fringing reefs to the east and west. Sandy beach. There were several boats already there preventing us getting into shallower water. Again a fairly steep drop off from about 3-4 m to 15+. There are 3 mooring buoys laid in the bay which are used by both yachts and cruise boats. (101 Anchorages - 40). Good beach, no habitation. Reasonable snorkelling, with mainly soft corals but the reef has suffered from dynamiting in the past. There were turtles though.

Teluk Wera

Anchorage location: 08° 17'.57 S, 118° 55'.82 E, 10 m

An open passage anchorage.

Tangung Pantjo

Anchorage location: 08° 15'.97 S, 118° 26'.76 E, anchor in 8 m, boat in 11-18 m.

Anchorage is to the south of a fairly extensive reef, giving improved shelter. Again it is possible to get closer in if no-one is already there!

There is a small habitation ashore. There appear to be similar anchorages along the coast between Tangung Joeli and Kilo.

Kananga

Anchorage location: 08° 08'.47 S, 117° 46'.01 E, anchor in 15 m, boat in 7 m.

Another narrow shelf off a village and opposite the island of Satonda. There are shallows to both sides.

Pulau Medang

Anchorage location: 08° 08'.47 S, 117° 22'.36 E, anchor in 14 m, boat in 8 m.

A pleasant stop. Extensive reefs off the beach make low water landing difficult. Seems to be a popular party spot for local boats although there is no village on this side of the island. (101 Anchorages - 52). Some fishermen's huts.

Gili Lawang

Anchorage location: 08° 17'.73 S, 116° 41'.40 E, 5 m

Anchorage in a gap between the reefs of the west side of the island. Good light needed to enter. Excellent shelter. We approached from the north. Room for 4-5 boats only. Other anchorages in the area. (101 Anchorages - 57). Water is cloudy.

Mataram (SI 2008)

The Sail Indonesia activities were close to a resort around the headland to the east of Gili Air. The waypoint given for the anchorage by Sail Indonesia was some 2 miles out at sea in deep water. With wind blowing fairly strong from the NE we did not close the coast and reefs to try to find the correct place. Boats coming later, in calmer or southerly conditions did find the anchorage, sheltered between two reefs.

We used two anchorages, one of them twice - Gili Air and Teluk Kombal..

Gili Air

Anchorage location (1): 08° 21'.93 S, 116° 05'.02 E, 18 m

Anchorage location (2): 08° 22'.03 S, 116° 04'.89 E, 23 m

OK when calm but wind gets up strongly from the south in the afternoon. There are moorings available for a small charge but several boats at anchor and on the moorings dragged. Lots of restaurants ashore as well as small shops. We had a day trip booked and did not feel secure leaving the boat, so left for Teluk Kombal. (101 Anchorages - 59)

We moved back when it was calmer and we were not planning to leave the boat. Again boats were dragging moorings. We anchored in deep water outside everyone and were OK. At this point wind and tide set boats in different directions so plenty of swinging room is needed.

Teluk Kombal

Mooring location: 08° 24'.29 S, 116° 04'.53 E

There are a number of mooring buoys, freshly laid, in the bay. We picked up one and were quite secure. There are also several older buoys, intended for small boats only which are definitely not secure. There is a charge for the use of the moorings. (101 Anchorages - 58)

Passage: Mataram - Lovina, Bali

75 M, Two day sails, overnight stop at Saneh Bay.

Saneh Bay, N Bali

Anchorage location: 08° 04'.87 S, 115° 14'.26 E, 6M, sand

A good wide bay with anchorage in reasonable depths off a village and apartments. Exposed to the north.

Lovina (SI2008)

Anchorage location: 08° 09'.69 S, 115° 01'.23 E, 6 m

Anchorage off the resort area of Lovina, plenty of room in reasonable depths. Reef to the east to avoid on entry. (101 Anchorages - 66). Large resort area with permanent restaurants and shops. WiFi available in the anchorage!

Passage: Lovina - Karimun Jawa

290 M. Day passage to overnight stop at Raas Island, overnight passage to Bawean, overnight there and then overnight passage to Karimun Jawa. Lots of fishing boat activity at night.

Pulau Raas

Anchorage location: 07° 07'.17 S, 114° 30'.30 E, 17 m

Anchor held at 2nd attempt (just as well as the windlass then failed!). Good shelter inside a large barrier reef. Good light desirable for entry through the wide pass and around the reef. Gets a lot shallower to the west of our anchorage location towards the village

Pulau Bawean

Anchorage location: 05° 43'.81 S, 112° 40'.04 E, 9 m

A sheltered bay on the north coast of the island with plenty of room. Lots of fish traps. Offshore these are bamboo rafts with a vertical marker. Inshore the vertical marker has been dispensed with so they are just bamboo poles lying flat in the water. (101 Anchorages - 69)

Karimum Jawa (SI2008)

Anchorage location: 05° 51'.496 S, 110° 25'.71 E, 10 m

The Sail Indonesia waypoint for this anchorage was right in the very shallow fishing harbour. A catamaran that attempted the entry had some difficulty extracting itself. Most boats anchored off the main village or in the area that had been designated for anchoring just to the north. Both these locations were in 15+ meters and subject to tidal streams. We chose to anchor in an inlet between the reefs somewhat to the north. Room for 4 or 5 boats in this inlet. This was very sheltered even though, as third boat there, we didn't have the best position. With two anchors down we felt confident in leaving Sea Bunny for 4 days. The local coastguard arranged patrols to keep an eye on the boats, and even provided a ferry service so we did not have to leave the dinghy ashore for 4 days (small charge).

We would have liked to have had more time to explore the islands.

Passage: Karimum Jawa - Kumai

210M, overnight passage

Kumai (SI2008)

Anchorage location: 02° 44'.81 S, 111° 43'.74 E, anchor in 14 m, boat in 7.5 m.

Anchorage in the river opposite the town, about 2 hours from the river entrance. We were the southernmost of the rally yachts. With no windlass we wanted to be clear of everyone else! The action was based on Heri's Yacht Services on the west bank about ¼ M to the north. Good holding in mud, but strong tidal streams. (101 Anchorages - 71).

The river is shallow in places on the way up (3-4 m in places).

Passage: Kumai - Belitung

Passage: Kumai - Belitung

240 M, 2 night passages. Lots of barge traffic. While tugs are usually correctly lit their tows are generally not - they may have a dim stern light. Tows can be very long.

Tanjung Kelayang, Belitung (SI2008)

Anchorage location: 02° 33'.41 S, 107° 40'.63 E, 8 m.

Anchorage for SI2008 was off the beach, where a “village” had been constructed for the rally and was effectively being dismantled as we left. Some permanent beach restaurants and ruins of a large resort hotel. Good holding on sand but watch out for coral patches. Clearance out of Indonesia had been arranged here for the rally.

Normally can clear in or out of Indonesia at the main port but apparently (2014) Visa on Arrival is not available here, so a pre-arranged visa is necessary.

2015 southbound

Belitung

Sea Bunny visited again in 2015 on her way south, anchoring in essentially the same place. Although this was the SE monsoon season the wind, particularyly in the afternoons was swinging round N of east and making the anchorage quite choppy. Generally the boats lay head to wind and sea though.

We had been recommended to contact Harun (+62 8117178895) for any assistance, which we did. Being a busy businessman himself he uses two associates to actually provide services to yachties. Jonny (+62 81271434108) will act as an agent, organising clearances in and out. You may or may not have to visit customs and immigration with him. Remember that you must have a prearranged visa if checking in here. Jonny arranged a PIB for another yacht that was both checking in and out for USD 15. Fee for doing the checkin and checkout was USD 75 and an agency fee of USD 35 - both paid in IDR.

The other associate is Evan (+62 819777814155) who has Evan's Beach Shack just to the east of the long jetty in front of the conspicous "Welcome to Belitung" sign that, somewhat oddly, faces the land. Evan will organise transport - he charged us IDR 500,000 for all day car and driver, including petrol. He will organise fuel, brought to the beach in a truck but supplied in jerrycans that were not very clean on the outside, but not too bad on the inside although filtering was necessary. It looked as if they had been filled by pointing the jump nozzle in the general direction of the filler. As it was quite choppy a significant amount of diesel was spilled in the dinghy. Evan's wife, Penny will do laundry.

There is reasonable 3G internet in the anchorage (Telkomsel).

Passage: Belitung - Singapore

305 M, 2 night passage then overnight stops at Mesenak Island and Cuma Island.

Mesenak

SI 2008

Anchorage location: 00° 25'.82 N, 104° 31.49 E, 10 m

Back in the northern hemisphere!

Anchorage to the east of fishing platform, outside the reef. (101 Anchorages - 85)

2015 southbound

Anchorage location: 00° 25'.79 N, 104° 31.54 E, 9.5 m anchor came up clean.

No fishing platform. Well sheltered.

Up to 2 knots of westerly current across the north of the island when we left.

Cuma Island, Riau Group

Anchorage location: 01° 00'.26 N, 104° 08'.31 E, 9 m

Anchorage to the east of the small Cuma Island, which is to the west of the larger Nginang Island off the Riau Strait. Holding is good on mud. Tidal streams significant. Easy reach of Singapore or Sebana Cove.

Most Sail Indonesia rally participants had checked out from Indonesia in Belitung. Boats that had done so were refused entry to Nongsa Point Marina on Batam. (Seems reasonable to us but some were surprised/annoyed).

Nongsa Point Marina, Batam

Nongsa Point Marina

Berth location 1° 11′.77 N, 104° 05′.79 E Aug-Nov 2013

Just across the strait from Singapore Nongsa Point offers a modern marina in a resort complex.It is well sheltered in the period we were there. The entrance is open to the NE so it might get uncomfortable in strong conditions from that quarter.

The marina entrance is marked by red and green piles visible from an approach from 1° 12′.3 N, 104° 05′.7 E. In fact there are two sets of red and green piles. The marina entrance is between the eastern set; the western one leads up the river to the ferry dock.

There is water and electricity on the pontoons and free WiFi, which would benefit from an external antenna. Marina staff are helpful.

Unusually for Indonesia there is a fuel dock.

The resort has a good pool that marina residents can use. Also a bar and restaurant, although we haven't used the latter and the former gets smoky.

A shuttle bus runs on Fridays, Saturdays and Sundays to Batam Central shopping mall where there is a large hypermarket although fresh fruit and veg can be limited and of variable quality. There are also supermarkets at the Nagoya Hills shopping mall and Carrefour, to which transport can be arranged.

Apart from the resort restaurant and the one at the adjacent Turi resort there are no restaurants or other local facilities within walking distance. The resort will arrange (chargeable) transport to other local restaurants.

To visit you need a CAIT or the Green Book valid for the Riau islands, obtainable in Singapore. You apparently only need a valid CAIT on arrival and departure, so you can leave a boat in the marina after the CAIT expires. On departure there is a fine if the CAIT is no longer valid, but this may be less than the cost of a new CAIT!

Most nationalities require a visa. A Visa on Arrival (VOA), if available for your nationality, will cost USD 25, valid for 30 days (both day of arrival and that of departure are counted). At the end of the validity you can take the resort shuttle bus to the Nongsapura ferry terminal (10 minutes) and get a ferry to Tanah Merah in Singapore (45 minutes). On return you can get another VOA for another USD 25. The return ferry costs SGD 46. Actually the fare is SGD 10 each way but to that are added "surcharges" and terminal fees, more than doubling the price. Ferry booking can be done online.

Note that the marina prices are in SGD. If, when you check out, you want to pay by credit card you do this at the resort reception and you card will be charged in IDR with conversion at the resort's rate. Hence you will be subject to a double exchange rate hit - presumably even if you have a Singapore card.

Allow plenty of time for the preparation of your bill and check it well - from experience there are likely to be errors - both in your favour and theirs! We tend to be fair and query both types.

In June 2014 the authorties on Batam Island started insisting that cruising yachts obtain a temporary import permit (PIB) before they could be checked in. Unfortunately agreement between the marina and the authorities on the procedures for obtaining one dragged on and as far as we know have not yet (October 2014) been agreed. As a result the marina advised that yachts should not attempt to clear in to Indonesia at Nongsa Point.

2015 southbound

The PIB problem has been resolved in 2015, but read on. We obtained a CAIT from ASWINDO, as recommended by the marina. ASWINDO also carried out preliminary work on the PIB at a combined cost of USD 250. This had to be finalised after arrival at Nongsa. A customs inspection of the boat was required. We waited on board all morning for the customs officers only to discover that they had completed the inspection which comprised a look at the boat and taking a photograph. The marina charged IDR 3 000 000 (USD 225) for finalising the PIB with customs! As Jonny in Belitung will organise a PIB for USD 15 checking in at Nongsa does not seem a very cost-effective option.

Having checked several times that fuel was available at the fuel dock, when we came to leave, there was none. The marina obtained 300 l from the local service station but in dirty cand, so it all had to be filtered.

Pulau Bawah

Head for hereAnchorage location 2° 30′.77 N, 106° 02′.58 E 16 m, muddy sand Oct-Nov 2013

The anchorage is in the middle-sized of the three lagoons. The largest and smallest are surrounded by shallow reefs, preventing access.

 The entrance is over the reef and is marked by floats about 20 metres apart. Depths over the reef are about 3 metres in the centre of this channel, but it is shallower at the edges and there are coral heads close to the channel once over the shallowest part. Good light and high water are both highly desirable. Once over the reef the lagoon deepens rapidly to 15-20 metres.

When we were there the marked channel was at 2° 30′.654 N, 106° 02′.206 E. From that location a course for the sandy beach (see picture) on the furthest islet appears to give the best water. You should of course check this approach by dinghy or visually.

The lagoon is used for overnight shelter by up to ten small fishing boats and the occasional larger one.

There are, at present, no facilities on the island. However, there is a construction team building a resort that will comprise 14 beachside villas complete with supporting facilities, infrastructure and staff accommodation (for 90). It is intended to be an upmarket location, with guests being flown in by seaplane. According to Paul, the project manager, it is intended to be completed by the end of 2014. According to another member of the team in 3-4 years!

The resort will apparently have moorings and wil not discourage visit by yachts.

Snorkelling is good with coral surrounding the lagoons and fringing the islands outside the reef. There are walks on th ebeaches and to the rocky outcrop overlooking the anchorage. The adventurous can scale the rocky peak of the NW island.

Southbound Passage 2015 Nongsa Point - Pulau Peucang

780 M over the ground, 828 through the water. Overnight stops at Ayer Rajah, Pulau Mesanak, SE tip of Pulau Lingga, NE and NW bays on Pulau Banggka then 6 days at the north of Belitung. Further overnight stops at P Nado, Tambelin, P Rakata (Krakatoa - 2 nights).

This trip is fairly hard work in the SE monsoon season as it is to windward and mostly against the current as indicated by the difference in the log readings.

We started off virtually reversing our 2008 northbound trip, but starting from Nongsa got a bit further on the first night. From Pulau Mesanak we headed for Pulau Kantar off the east coast of P Lingga but, making fairly good time, decided to carry on a bit further to the bay at the SE tip of P. Lingga. Leaving there intending an overnight passage to Belitung we found that with a short sea on the nose we were strugggling to make 4 knots over the ground and it was quite uncomfortable. We bore away and headed for Teluk Bulu at the NW of the large Pulau Bangka. We had decided that, if the conditions remained bad we might go to the west of Bangka ad n end up with a NE'ly sail back up to Belitung. The next morning conditions had improved so we changed the plan again and moved to the NE of Bangka. From there it should have been about a 20-hour passage to Belitung, but with wind and current still against us it actually took 29.

Tin miner

Off the N coast of Bangka we came across two large moored floating structures looking like they were some kind of factory. Apparently they are dredging to extract tin ore. See Guardian and Friends of the Earth articles on the tin industry and its environmental effects

After a few nights at Belitung we headed for the Sunda Strait, aiming to transit the strait and arrive at the Krakatoa anchorage in daylight after a one-night passage. We just achieved the first of those objectives but had an interesting night entry to the crater of Krakatoa.

Sunda Strait

Having had dire warnings of very rough seas and overfalls in the Sunda Strait, we passed through in a flat calm.

From Krakatoa it was a day trip to Pulau Peucang, where we waited for a weather window for our departure from SE Asia and passage to Cocos Keeling.

Common anchorages with the 2008 passage - Pulau Mesanak and Tanjung Kalayang, Belitung are listed above, new ones below.

Ayer Rajah

Anchorage location: 00° 58'.07 N, 104° 08'.54 E, 12 m swinging into 7 m soft mud

Anchorage is in a large bay, approached past several fishing structures and traps. Shelter good and very peaceful.

Pulau Lingga, SE

Anchorage location:  00° 16'.7 S, 104° 58'.0 E position approximate 9.4m Possible rocky bottom

Anchorage is in the second bay west of the tip of the island. Reasonably protected but a bit of swell.

Pulau Bangka NW

Ship in bay

Anchorage location:  01° 37'.66 S, 105° 22'.60 E, 12 m swinging into 7 m soft mud

Our approach was at night. There was significant fishing boat activity up to about 20 miles out, with buoyed nets. A couple of largish ships anchored in the bay. Good shelter.

Pulau Bangka NE

Anchorage location:  01° 30'.51 S, 105° 52'.37 E, 8 m anchor came up clean

Another good anchorage.

Pulau Nado

Anchorage location: 02° 55'.17 S, 107° 28'.59 E, 9 m sand

The anchorage is between the island of Nado and the small unnamed (?) island to its east, both to the west of Belitung. Shelter is good.

Tambelin

Anchorage location:  03° 10'.32 S, 107° 34'.93 E, 6 m mud

We moved to this anchorage to shorten the distance to the Sunda Strait. We ended up anchoring in about 6 m about a mile from the shore, just far enough in to get shelter from the headland to the south. A bit of swell. Not much to recommend it.

Pulau Rakata (Krakatoa southern anchorage)

Anchorage location: 06° 08'.69 S, 105° 25'.67 E, 18 m, pulling out to 25 m sand

Anak Krakatoa

The anchorage is within the crater of the exploded volcano of Krakatoa.

We entered at night, using split screens on the chart plotter - radar, depth and chart. approaching the anchorage we were in depths of over 100 m until very close to the shore. Depths then rapidly reduced to 50, then 25, by which stage we were about 50 m from the shore. The island of Rakata, which is all that remains of the southern part of Krakatoa, rises steeply from the sea, so this entry was reasonably easy, but the sound and sight of the beach creates some nervousness. The anchorage is very sheltered from the south and east.

The view of Anak Krakatoa (son of Krakatoa) from the anchorage is impressive.

Pulau Peucang

Anchorage location: 06° 44'.95 S, 105° 15'.74 E, 16 m  pulling back to 12 m mud

Peucang

The anchorage is between the island of Peucang and the Java mainland, just off the national park visitor centre. Good shelter from sweel but can be, and was, windy. A good location to wait for the weather.

There is a daily charge of IDR 150,000 per person for the Ujong Kulon National Park and a one-off charge of IDR 150 000 for the boat. We went to the office and paid for two days access, on one of which we did the walk across the island to the north coast, but felt that paying for access to the whole park just for walking on the beach was excessive. We were not approached for further fees.

The WiFi at the visitor centre was not working and there is no 3G signal.

 

 

Updated from Grand Bay, Mauritius on 13 September 2015

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