Our route took us from Puteri Harbour around Singapore, carefully remaining outside Singapore port limits to Tanjung Pengelih in the Sungei Santi just off the East Johor Strait. This passage is best done in daylight as there are numerous shipping movements with ships leaving the TSS to anchor, or to enter the port. From T. Pengelih we made daytime passages to overnight anchorages at Teluk Mahkota (Jason Bay), Pulau Tinggi and Pulau Seri Baut before catching up with the rally at Pulau Tioman. From the Tioman group we crossed to Pulau Chempedek (Kuantan) and then via Pulau Tenggol and Pulau Kapas to Kuala Terengganu.
There are numerous fishing traps, some not easily visible, all the way up this coast which require a sharp lookout during daytime and which would make night passages interesting.
Winds for this passage were generally light and variable. There seems to be significant land effect modifying the SW monsoon. Occasional squalls and thunderstorms.
Anchorage position: 01° 23'.4N 104° 06'.0 E, 3.2 m (CD), mud 2 June 2010
A useful stop-over after rounding Singapore (54 nM from Puteri).
In the Sunge Santi off the East Johor Strait. Sebana Cove marina is some distance further up the river.
Anchor well to the east of the naval base or you will apparently be moved on.
There is a new Jabatan Laut (Marine Department) marina in the entrance to the river west of the naval base. It appeared empty when we passed apart from Jabatan Laut boats and a marina launch.
There is much reclamation work in progress in the Johor Strait beyond the river entrance.
River channel is buoyed. There is an isolated danger mark in the river just east of the naval base.
Anchorage position: 01° 51'.6 N 104° 08'.7 E, 4 m (CD), mud 3 June 2010
We anchored in the south of the bay off the kampong.
Some swell bending round the headland. Lots of fishing buoys.
Could anchor anywhere in the bay.
Did not go ashore.
Anchorage position: 02° 19'.0 N 104° 06'.0 E, 10.7 m (CD), sand 4 June 2010
Scenic anchorage just to the east of the headland. Rocky closer in. Some slight swell.
Reasonable snorkelling in the bay to the east of the rock outcrop.
Good sandy beach at LW - lots of rubbish above HW mark, including dead dolphin.
Anchorage position: 02° 40'.9 N 103° 53'.8 E, 8 m, sand 5 June 2010
We anchored to the south of the reef between the two islands, having passed by the northern anchorage which looked very rolly and uncomfortable in a NW swell.
The reef drops off gently to a sandy slope with sea-grass and then clear sand.
However, in the evening the wind went round to the SE, sending a swell into this anchorage so we and other boats left for the northern anchorage, now smoother.
Note: It is not possible to take anything other than a dinghy across the reef, except possibly a catamaran at high tideand even that would not be recommended.
Anchorage position: 02° 41'.88 N 103° 53'.88 E, 12 m, sand 5 June 2010
Once the NW swell had died down and the wind was in the SE the N anchorage was sheltered.
The reef on this side is steep-to to about 10 m.
This anchorage is more scenic than the the southern.
There are dinghy buoys on the edge of the reef marking the best snorkelling/dive spots.
Large local fishing boats fishing illegally in the marine park.
Anchorage position: 02° 49'.4 N 104° 09'.6 E, 11 m CD, sand, 6-7 June 2010
Although we anchored in sand the boat dropped back so that the stern was over coral in about 5 m at LW (all chain still on sand). Marine authorities are strict anout not putting anchors on coral which is surprisingly good in despite its closeness to the newish marina.
This anchorage is to the north of the marina and possibly less rolly than those to the south.
Check-in facilities were at the marina when we were there for the rally. Customs/immigration main office is to the south alond the road.
Marina is fgairly full with long term and laocl boats. It seems to be well constructed and protected behind a substantial rock wall.
The village has small stores, a bakery, laundry and restaurants. Good chinese restaurant on beach at south of village.
Anchorage position: 02° 49'.0 N 104° 09'.0 E, 10 m, sand, 14 June 2010 short day stop
Sand hump virtually opposite Chinese restaurant - space for 3 boats. Much deeper further out and coral heads inshore. The position given would be 20-30 m too close to the coral for an overnight stop or in a westerly wind
Anchorage position: 02° 43'10 N 104° 10'.95 E, 15 m CD, 8 June 2010, day only
Anchored out from the visible, steep-to, fringing reef. Rocky shore.
Shore access from concrete jetty to attractive village and waterfall walk.
Shorter access to waterfall from jetty further west.
Waterfall is not large but has deep pool for refreshing cool swim, also some tables for picnic etc.
Anchorage position: 02° 47'.2 N 104° 12'.3 E, 6.8 m CD, sand, 8-11 June 2010
We anchored to the south of the rocky outcrop dividing the beach. A bit rolly at night but generally OK.
Tourist office, small stores, cafes etc in village. Road access to Teluk Tekek.
low-key dive operator, Sunrise Diving, to north of rock outcrop - faded blue/white flag. Will fill tanks.
Good Chinese restaurant on beach at north end - Juara Beach Resort on facade. Has tour groups during school holidays - need to order after 1930.
Can take dinghy up river to south of beach for fresh-water swim/wash.
Mooring position: 02° 54'.62 N 104° 06'.75 E, 8 m, sand,12 June 2010, day only
There are several red mooring buoys with reasonable lines to large concrete blocks. Need to check distance from shallow coral.
Very popular with local snorkelling/dive trips.
Coral inshore OK but dive out to 18 m depth did not find much in the way of sea-fans.
Anchorage position: 02° 51'.9 N 104° 09'.0 E, 12 m, sand, 12-13 June 2010
Scenic bay to the north of Teluk Tekek. Popular with dive and snorkel boats, buoys on reef for them.
Pleasant sand beach - the monkeys seem to be mainly on the southern one.
Anchorage position: 02° 54'.8 N 104° 05'.1 E, 16 m (CD), sand?, 14 June 2010
Anchorage is reasonably sheltered except from west. Coral in bay is mainly dead and broken. Further out more alive.
Pleasant sandy beach dries well out at LW. Mangrove swamp at head of bay.
No facilities but a useful starting point for heading west back to the mainland.
Anchorage position: 03° 48'.4 N 103° 22'.6 E, 5 m (CD), Mud, broken shell?, 15-16 June 2010. Wind S 5-20 knots
As we were one of the last of the Passage to the East rally yachts to arrive we anchored fairly well out, opposite the failed hotel resort to the south of the Hyatt.
With the mostly southerly wind the anchorage was exposed and very rolly. Rubbish being burned ashore at night caused acrid smoke to drift out to the anchorage. The beach is steep-to and medium breakers made getting ashore interesting. It would be dangerous in stronger winds/bigger surf.
Beach activity operators to the south of the Hyatt organised fuel in jerrycans for some. Rubbish bins on beach in front of Hyatt.
Apart from the Hyatt there are several restaurants and shops ashore. Access either through the Hyatt, around it to the south or along the beach to the north.
Taxis to Kuantan town from the roundabout just to the north of the Hyatt entrance - about RM 15. Supermarkets, good fresh market and all shops in town.
Not a favourite anchorage!
Anchorage position: 04° 48'6 N 103° 40'.5 E, 38 m! 17 June 2010
There is space for about 6 boats in the shallower part of the bay - put anchor down in 15 m and dig in towards the beach . The boat may still settle in 30 m if wind is offshore.
When we arrived there were already 6 boats there - hence anchoring in deep water with 90 m of chain. There is reported to be a wreck which can snag anchors near where we anchored - fortunately we didn't find it
Bay is very exposed to the west - we had to leave after one night and before getting any diving or shorkelling as the local dive operator advised thet with the forecast conditions the anchorage would be very uncomfortable. (in the event the weather didn't materialise and another boat spent a comfortable night there).
The dive operator ashore - Charlie is very helpful - and can serve cold beers. His is the building south of the restaurant. Dives RM 40 with own tanks and gear, RM 80 with his tanks, your gear, RM 120 with all his equipment.
Restaurant serves fixed meal, local food at 1930 - not tried.
Anchorage position: 05° 13'.76 N 103° 15'.79 E, 2.9 m (CD) sand, 18-21 June 2010
Mooring position: 05° 13'.7 N 103° 15'.7 E, 3.3 m (CD), 22 June 2010
Very pleasant and sheltered anchorage between P Kapas and P Gumia. Open to west but we didn't have any problem. There are some red public moorings - largish and metal but enough scope to lift out of water to avoid banging on the buoy.
We initially anchored in 2.9 m @ CD but we grounded when the tides got close to springs - the echo sounder still showed 2.8 m but the keel further aft had found a <2.2 m hump. We moved to one of the buoys for the last night of our stay.
Low key resorts on P Kapas - good food at the first one but service was very slow one evening. Paradoxically it was much better when 7 of us arrived unannounced than when 12 arrived having made a booking. Posher resort on P Gumia.
Rubbish bins on beach (but this may have just been for the rally).
Reasonable, but very popular, snorkelling along the P Kapas shore of the anchorage. Snorkelling and diving to west of P Gumia.
Harbour outer breakwater 05° 20'.44 N 103° 09'.28 E
Marina berth 05° 20'.29 N 103° 07'.85 E 23-26 June 2010
Well protected harbour with inner and outer breakwaters.
Maarina seems well constructed but is in a direct line with the harbour entrance so could be rough in a direct blow. Marina was built to accommodate the annual Moonsoon Cup. It was not busy when we were there, except for the rally yachts. Huge underutilised buildings.
Gym, good showers, sauna (if you need it in 32°and high humidity). Towels provided at showers, but tended to run out. Pool in hotel complex.
Marina can organise laundry - check what you get back.
Water and electricity to berths.
Cafe in marina area (not tried). Restaurant in large "ballroom" next door.
Ferry from marina across to Chinatown or can take dinghy up and leave it at jetty by customs building. Various engine type shops and low-key chandlery near Shell garage on road north from customs building. Banks, ATMs etc ;eft out of customs building then first right.
Marina can organise taxis to Giant or Mydin supermarkets. Pork butcher in Chinatown (not tried).
No fuel dock in marina. Reported to be for fishing boats near bridge over river. For the rally fuel in 200 l drums was organised via a fishing boat. Transfer was by 1 HP pump with only on/off control, or flow control be kinking pipe - messy.
Yellow scum for sand dredging up river stains topsides. Claims that it washes off after 2 days at sea are wildly exaggerated.
Anchorage position: 05° 45'.1 N 103° 00'.1 E ,7.6 m (CD) sand, 27 June 2010
Sheltered anchorage except from SE. Some wash from boat movements.
Marine park centre on P Pinang to south of anchorage. Exhibition hall very limited. Busy with snorkellers in morning.
Large jetties in harbour for fishing boats, ferries and small cargo boats.
Could not locate "proper fuel dock" mentioned in ASP although there was a side jetty off one of the long ones which could have been it once.
Small shop and cafe at shore end of pier. Also rusty sign advertising fuel. Rubbish bins on jetty.
Appears to be a resort on hill to west of harbour. Road access across bridge too far to summon up enthusiasm for walk. Could not identify beach access. Major land clearance activity on hill above village.
Mooring position: 05° 46'.45 N 103° 03'.50 E, Buoy in >18 m boat in 12 m, 28 June 2010 Day stop
Sandy beach on west side of this group of islets giving way rapidly to reef which slopes quickl;y down to 25-30 m.
One buoy suitable for yachts - as above. Would be dangerously close to the shore in an onshore blow. Another red buoy closer in is in 2 m or so and has a small concrete block and is used by local dive/snorkel operators. Did not appear to be possible to anchor except illegally on coral.
Quiet when we were there but reputed to get very crowded when boats arrive.
Reasonable snorkelling from boat.
Anchorage position: 05° 47'.20 N 103° 01'.11 E , 6.5 m (CD) sand, 28 June 2010
Good anchorage off sandy beach - no fringing reef. Open to N - NE.
Large resort in bay - beach separated by rock outcrop. Resort has landing pontoon, so can get ashore with dry feet.
Can use resort restaurants or walk through resort and 150 m up the hill to a local restaurant.
Rocky sides to bay have reef sloping rapidly to 25 m or so.
Anchorage position: 05° 54'.7 N 102° 45'.0 E , 8 m (CD) sand, 29 June 2010. Day stop only
Anchorage was fairly exposed and choppy so we only stopped for a couple of hours to snorkel.
Anchorage position: 05° 55'.82 N 102° 43'.44 E , 11 m sand, 29 June 2010
Anchorage is off the low-key resort, where meals are available and diving can be arranged. Reasonably sheltered.
Jetty and steps at the southern end of the bay lead only to the wind generators and do not apparently give a panoramic view.
Reasonable snorkelling in bay