In January 2009, leaving Telaga at mid-day after checking out we stopped the first night at Ko Tanga (19M) and then to Ko Rok (42M) and Ko Racha Yai (41M) before Ao Chalong (10M).
In November 2009 we took broadly the same route but, having checked out the day before left before 1000 and omitted Ko Tanga (which was not terribly comfortable).
Ao Chalong - Surins:150 nM
Surins - Similans: 50 nM
Similans - Patong Beach: 62 nM
Our route in 2009 took us from Ao Chalong to Kamala Beach (19 M), overnight there than a day sail to Ban Thap Lamu (48 M) another day sail up the coast and in behind Ko Pra Thong, anchoring to the east of Ko Ra ( 43 M) - an interesting inland passage (see below). Finally we had a fast sail in roughish conditions out to the Surins (40 M).
In 2010 we motored in very light winds direct from Nai Harn to Ko Miang in the Similans (57M).
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Position: 09° 10'.32 N 98° 18'.30 E. Mud. 5m. NE season. ASP p 86 A
The islands of Ko Pha Thong and Ko Ra form a sheltered 20 M inland route north. The southern entrance is between two reefs aligned roughly NE/SW with a shallow (5m) bar at the outer end. It presented no difficulty in good visibility in the NE season. The reefs were clearly visible. It could well be a very different story in onshore conditions or poor visibility.
We anchored about 3/4 of the way through, at the north of the island of Ko Thung Thu to the east of the channel. There is a village on Ko Ra to the west.
Heading north the water to the north of the small island to the north west of Ko Thung Thu is fairly shallow. We saw 3.2 m close to low water but with limited charted information this is a bit too little! The water is deeper to the west of the centre of the channel.
Waypoints, taken from our track, for the passage from outside the southern entrance to close to the anchorage are as follows:
W 000 0 ° 0.0 Nm 08°59.49 N 098°12.20 E
W 001 33 ° 1.0 Nm 09°00.33 N 098°12.76 E
W 002 61 ° 0.7 Nm 09°00.65 N 098°13.37 E
W 003 71 ° 1.8 Nm 09°01.23 N 098°15.07 E
W 004 79 ° 2.6 Nm 09°01.71 N 098°17.61 E
W 005 72 ° 1.1 Nm 09°02.07 N 098°18.70 E
W 006 36 ° 1.0 Nm 09°02.91 N 098°19.33 E
W 007 28 ° 2.1 Nm 09°04.79 N 098°20.35 E
W 008 358 ° 0.7 Nm 09°05.46 N 098°20.32 E
W 009 345 ° 0.6 Nm 09°06.00 N 098°20.17 E
W 010 335 ° 1.7 Nm 09°07.58 N 098°19.41 E
W 011 329 ° 1.5 Nm 09°08.84 N 098°18.64 E
W 012 338 ° 0.8 Nm 09°09.58 N 098°18.33 E
W 013 350 ° 0.6 Nm 09°10.13 N 098°18.23 E
January 2009, 42M, motoring in light winds initially then wind filled in to NE 15-20 knots
June 2009, SW season.
Route via Ko Racha Yai (E) (12M) then to Ko Rok Nok (56M), Ko Lean (48M) and Telaga (32M). Light winds and motoring all the way
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Position: 06° 34'.9 N 99° 27'.1 E, 13m Felt like rock! ASP p99 A. 4 Jan 09 NE season.
We initially anchored in 11m 2ca to the south of this position at the W end of the gap between the two islands. This was definitely rocky! We moved when fishing boats anchored in the bay to the north moved away. No other yachts.
Large fishing fleet at anchor during the day to the south, moved off to work in the evening, returning in the morning.
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ASP p93 A, SKL 1-5
Position: 07° 12'.96 N 99° 03'.76 E, 11 m Sand. 5&6 Jan 09, NE season
Position: 07° 12'.87 N 99° 03'.99 E, 7 m Sand. 11 Nov 09, NE season
On our way north in the NE season we anchored in the pass between Ko Rok Nok and Ko Rok Nai.
Very picturesque anchorage with - at last - clear water. Reasonable snorkelling. There are park rangers on Ko Rok Nai and a campsite. Rangers apparently sometimes approaach boats to collect a fee but we haven't experienced this. Dive boats visit.
There are mooring buoys, several of which are very close to the shallows - intended for short stays by shallow draft dive boats. A couple of moorings are in deeper water but we prefer to anchor.
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ASP p93 A, SKL 1-6
Position: 07° 12'.42 N 99° 04'.08 E, 11 m Sand & coral - boat in 22 m. 30 Jun 09, SW season
In the SW season, not wanting to anchor E of the pass where it was a bit swelly, we attempted to find a good spot to the east of Ko Rok Nok. Reef drops off sharply and sand patches visible are close to reef and/or shallow. We found a passable spot at the second attempt but the anchor snagged when we were leaving - came free eventually.
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ASP p71 A, S308 4-1
Position: 07° 36'.5 N 98° 21'.9 E, 11m sand . 7 Jan 09, NE season
Position: 07° 36'.6 N 98° 21'.9 E, (mooring). 12 Nov 09, NE season
Position: 07° 36'.6 N 98° 21'.9 E. 13 Dec 09, NE season
There are quite a few moorings in the bay, mostly occupied by day trip boats from Phuket, which is only about 10 M to the north. We anchored in the south of the bay. On a subsequent visit we picked up a red public buoy. The other buoys are used by dive and day trip boats and they will ask you to move when they arrive in the morning
The head of the bay is taken up by a smart resort which does not seem too welcoming to yachties. There is a low-key resort and restaurant at the north end of the bay, with a short walk to a lookout and reasonable food. On our visit in Nov 2009 this restaurant's prices seemed to have increased significantly (THB 700 for a simple meal for 2 including 1 large Chang beer at THB 160).
There is also a walk to the south, accessed over the posh resort's beach.
Snorkelling at the sides of the bay is OK but nothing special. Dive books warn you to be careful of the tide at the points on either side to avoid being swept out to sea!
The photo shows the anchorage from one of the public moorings in the NW of the bay. The yacht in the foreground is on another public buoy
ASP p71 B, S308 4-2
Position: 07° 36'.4 N 98° 22'.7 E, sand. 30 Jun 09, SW season
Anchorage in clear water in the bay. Some local moorings unsuitable for yachts. Some dive boats overnight. Bottom shelves quite rapidly.
Good snorkelling reported but we did not try.
Position - in vicinity of: 07° 49'.3 N 98° 21'.3 E depending on draft and space. 5m or less. Mud.
Either season - but can be uncomfortable in either. ASP 31 A, S308 1-25.
Caution: There is an uncharted shallow patch with less than 1.5 m at CD in position 07° 48'.98 N, 98° 22'.03 E. Care required when approaching from the east. The patch rises rapidly from over 5 m and appears to be soft mud.
Ao Chalong is the location of the immigration/customs/port control one-stop shop for check-in and check-out from Thailand, so most boats get there at some time or other.
The anchorage to the north of the long pier is crowded with local boats and visiting yachts at anchor.
Approach from the south keeping fairly well out as there are extensive shallows to the south of the pier. There are two conspicuous concrete channel markers to the east of the pier. While it is not necessary to pass between them they form a useful aiming point on approach either from the south or east.
The semi-ruined marina two-thirds of the way out on the pier which formed a usable dinghy dock in early 2009 was by end 2009 almost completely ruined. In August 2011 it is being rebuilt. The main pontoons look fairly complete but there are no finger pontoons yet. Whether it is intended for visiting yachts or for the local fleet of tour boats is not known
A dinghy landing point is just to the north of the Lighthouse Restaurant (looks like a lighthouse!) but not at low water and can be subject to breakers sufficient to make landing difficult and/or wet.
The "one-stop shop" is open daily until 1500 but may close for lunch. Overtime charges are payable at weekends.
The Ao Chalong Yacht Club has moved from its location given in ASP and is now about 400 m along the beach to the north of the Lighthouse.
Many restaurants, bars and dive shops. Two supermarkets - Tesco Lotus and Villa Market. The latter is the place for upmarket western-style food. (Australian Wagyu beef for the connoisseurs at up to THB 1000 (£20) or more per 100g). Also specialist deli and wine shops.
Laundry at the far end of the road opposite the Lighthouse landing point.
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ASP p74 A, S308 1-20
Position: 07° 46'.5 N 98° 18'.1 E, 10 m sand. 2-4 Feb 09, NE season
Position: 07° 46'.4 N 98° 18'.1 E, 12 m sand. 17- 27 Dec 09, NE season
Position: 07° 46'.5 N 98° 18'.0 E, 12 m sand. 6 - 10 Jan 10, NE season
Nai Harn is a largish bay with plenty of space for the 100 or so yachts that congregate there for the Christmas period, so the anchoring positions given are by no means prescriptive.
There are numerous restaurants, a convenience store, several souvenir shops and tour agents. Also taxi and tuk-tuk stands of varying standard.
The nearest source of diesel is the a petrol station in Ao Chalong. Should be able to negotiate a round-trip tuk-tuk for THB300 or less.
Landing on the main beach, even at the point near the swimming enclosure recommended in ASP, can be wet. There is generally less swell in front of the Ao Sane bungalow resort on the north side of the bay from where it is a 10 minute walk to the main beach. When landing here keep a close watch, day and night, for divers crossing the channel between the rocks. We had a group pass in front of us only about 1 m down, with no float or other marker and saw the torches of another group when leaving one night.
The Ao Sane restaurant is deservedly popular with yachties for meals at reasonable prices and did an excellent Christmas Eve buffet
ASP p 74 E, S308 1-19
Position: 07° 49'.1 N 98° 17'.7 E, 8 m sand. 28-30 Dec 09, NE season
Anchor anywhere in the bay. Landing can be made at the S end of the beach where swell may be less. There is a bathing enclosure and dinghies can be tied to the buoy lines. Some leave their dinghies tied well out and swim/wade ashore. Many restaurants on the shore and on the road behind the resorts.
An alternative landing place is a the the other end of the beach, beyond the Club Med resort. There are also restaurants a short distance up the road from here.
The anchorage is plagued by jet-skis, the drivers of which seem to delight in "buzzing" anchored yachts and seem oblivious of the nuisance this causes or of the danger to anyone who happened to be swimming off their yacht
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ASP pp76-77 A, S308 1-16
Position: 07° 53'.4 N 98° 17'.1 E, 8 m sand. 31 Jan 09, NE season
Position: 07° 53'.7 N 98° 17'.1 E, 9 m sand. 31 Dec 09, NE season
Patong is a good anchorage for getting supplies and for the New Year Fireworks. The latter start about 1900 and go on till about 0200! We watched the fireworks from the catamaran Truest Passion, anchored much closer in.
There are floating pontoons in the SE corner of the beach where dinghies can be left, avoiding a surf landing on the beach. The Carrefour supermarket is a walkable distance. Taxis/tuk-tuks back are expensive at THB200, a local cartel works here. Unlicensed (?) taxis can be obtained for longer trips at more reasonable prices - you will probably be approached.
The anchorage is busy with jet-skis, parascenders and longtails all creating wash, so it is not particularly comfortable.
Warning: During the firework display several thousand lanterns were launched into the night sky to drift out over the bay. A small minority of there came down still burning. Also at midnight a few idiots launched parachute flares. These do come down still burning - one landed within six feet of Truest Passion (and of our inflatable).
ASP p79 A, S308 1-14
Position: 07° 57'.65 N 98° 16'.72 E Sand. 6m. 11 Jan 09, NE season.
We anchored towards the north of the bay, away from the busier area to the south. Quite rolly. Gave a more reasonable day sail up to Ban Thap Lamu than if we had left from Ao Chalong.
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Position: 08° 32'.99 N 98° 13'.98 E. Mud. 5m. NE season. ASP p83
The Ban Thap Lamu estuary is home to a Royal Thai Navy base and a substantial fishing fleet. It is also the base for most tourist trips to the Similan and Surin Islands.
The entrance is well marked and the channel is buoyed up to the town.
The anchorage position A in ASP, off the town is where most people anchor. However the lat/long position given in ASP is over a mile further up the river almost at the limit of navigation for deep draft vessel. This is also where we anchored. Here it is very peaceful, with only a few fishermen and the birds for company and away from the bustle of the town. Fuel is apparently available in the town. Photo shows the town quays.
The anchorage would be OK in either season - getting there is a NE season trip.